 A Real Deal
New Iron Steaks revitalizes old Broadway haunt
By Greg Sabin
I’ll admit it: I’m too young to remember Fuji, the venerable Sacramento institution that held down the corner of Broadway and 13th Street for more than 20 years. Yet I can recognize a beautiful remodel when I see one. Not knowing the former layout of Fuji, I can only
say that Iron Steaks owner Bill Taylor has done an incredible job converting a dated Japanese hangout into a hip, modern and inviting space to enjoy a fine piece of meat.
When walk into Iron Steaks, the first thing you notice is the wood. It’s everywhere–on the walls, the tables, the bar, the ceiling. Warm wood lines every part of the room, yet not in an old-fashioned, wood-paneled English-library sort of way, but with an eye towards design, modernism and warmth.
If you choose one of the many roomy booths that line Iron Steaks’ walls, you’ll be charmed by the clever tables that swivel on their foundations, allowing diners to easily take a seat in the plush leather without the server having to drag the table across the fine wood floors.
You’ll also notice that each table has a large stone slab in the center. Don’t worry: This is not one of those places where you have to cook your own meat. Others have tried that approach–most recently Stonegrill on L Street–and failed. No, these stones are intelligently provided so that dishes can be served at the table on ripping-hot cast-iron plates, keeping the vittles warm while you dole them out family-style.
 When you take a look at the menu, the prices might startle–$29 for a T-bone, $42 for a porterhouse–until you read the fine print explaining that the T-bone will serve two people, the porterhouse three. When you start making the calculations you realize that for dinner, Iron Steaks–while no means cheap–is one of the most affordable steakhouses in town. Compared to the better-known Ruth’s Chris and Morton’s national chains, it’s a veritable steal.
But what to have with your corn-fed, Midwest beef? I hope you’ll take my advice and skip the potatoes (not that they’re not good, in fact the mashed potatoes are light and delicious.) Instead move right on to the mac and cheese ($7). Made with five cheeses and an indulgently creamy béchamel sauce, the childhood staple is in rare form here.
When it comes to vegetables, move right past the creamed spinach ($8.) Once again, it’s not that it’s not good, or not a perfect steakhouse staple, but that, alongside the aforementioned mac and cheese, it might just overload the butter and cream receptors in your aorta.
Instead grab yourself a side of one of the most lovely plates of string beans ($6) you’re likely to find anywhere. Redolent of garlic and butter, they’re divine. If you’re a mushroom fan, you’ll probably also enjoy a plate of sautéed mushrooms ($8). They might seem a little salty by themselves, but taken together with a bite of medium rare beef–or, God help me, a hearty bite of mac and cheese–your troubles will just melt away.
Oh yes, be careful not to fill up on the beigneti. Iron Steaks serves them instead of bread, and the fried doughy treats are pure addiction on a platter. They’re a carryover from Bill Taylor’s other restaurant venture, Willie’s Burgers, and–served toasty warm with a side of honey butter–they’re much more than the standard bread offering.
When it comes to which steak to choose, it’s all a matter of personal preference. You might be a filet person or a porterhouse aficionado. Whatever your predilection, you’ll find more than enough choices on the menu. I’d recommend the T-bone ($29) for a party of two, and the large, 48-ounce porterhouse ($75) for a table of four to six.
For non-steak lovers, Iron Steaks also offers chicken, crab, lobster, salmon and seared ahi, with the lobster and crab available in larger portions appropriate for sharing.
So what have we got? You and the better half go out for a nice evening, grab the $29 T-bone or the filet for two ($38), throw in a couple of sides and dessert (try the chocolate mousse cake) or even pass on dessert for a couple of absolutely stellar crab cakes ($7 each) at the top of the meal, and you’re out the door for around $60. Not a bad deal for a superb meal.
What about wine, you say? Forgive me for not mentioning it sooner, but Iron Steaks has a wonderfully generous corkage policy. They don’t charge a corkage fee–that’s their policy. So grab that bottle of red you’ve been saving for a special occasion. (A quick etiquette suggestion: If you do bring your own bottle, it’s a nice gesture to offer a taste to your server, as well as consider the price of the bottle when calculating the tip.)
Iron Steaks is also open for lunch Monday through Friday, featuring–you guessed it–steak sandwiches along with a host of lighter fare.
Iron Steaks is at 2422 13th Street. Visit ironsteaks.com.
Greg Sabin can be reached at
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